Dick Mack’s Pub and Haberdashery

Words by Bill Linnane
Photography by Valerie O’Sullivan

“Where is Dick Mack’s? Opposite the church. Where is the church? Opposite Dick Mack’s.”

These words, written on the side of Dick Mack’s pub, say a lot about the central pillars of village life in Ireland: churches and pubs, faith and devotion, whiskey and porter.

The two have been facing each other down across Green Street since the late 1800s, and neither has changed a whole lot. Go back a few decades and Dick Mack’s was a typical Irish pub, doubling up as a hardware store, grocers, and leather works. As the village grew and new stores opened it was reduced to being solely a pub, though a leather worker remains in place, crafting belts for tourists as they while away an hour with a pint and a shot.

The current owner is Dick MacDonnell’s son, Oliver, who was born above the pub and lives there to this day. A fixture in one the many snugs, Oliver can be found wearing his hat, Guinness in hand, distinguished by one of those lived-in faces that make him ‘the most photographed man in Ireland’ according to the barman.

To enter, the space seems small, a whiskey-laden bar on one side and a leather workbench opposite, but a bit of exploration quickly reveals a warren of antechambers, perfect for family gatherings or planning a revolution, with the funhouse qualities of uneven floors, layer upon layer of varnish on the bars, decades-old showcards on the walls, and a maze of rooms. Most importantly Dick Mack’s still has something that all Irish pubs strive for: Soul. Sadly pubs like this are part of a disappearing world, even in Ireland.

Dick Mack’s, like the church across the road, offers spiritual healing: time spent here is good for the soul, the epicurean comforts of good food and drink easing you into its surrounds like a favourite pair of old leather shoes. In a world ever-racing forward, Dick Mack’s is a still and perfect moment; a destination that makes any journey worthwhile.

Dick Mack’s Pub and Haberdashery
Across the Church
Dingle, County Kerry
tel: +353 66 915 1787